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Your guide to Meaux

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Meaux sits on a broad bend of the River Marne, roughly forty kilometres east of Paris, and its position has made it a place of consequence since long before the French capital overshadowed it. The Romans knew it as Iatinum, and the medieval bishops of Meaux wielded influence across a wide swathe of the Île-de-France. That layered past is still legible in the city today, from the Gothic cathedral of Saint-Étienne, whose construction stretched across several centuries, to the formal Bishop's Garden laid out in the seventeenth century by the landscape designer La Quintinie, who also shaped the kitchen gardens at Versailles.

The cathedral quarter rewards unhurried attention. The building itself bears the marks of repeated interruption, with Romanesque foundations giving way to Gothic vaulting and later Renaissance additions, the whole ensemble reflecting the interrupted ambitions of a diocese that was once among the most powerful in northern France. The Bishop's Garden beside it is one of the more quietly satisfying green spaces in the region, its geometric parterres and old walls offering a composure that the city centre, busy with market days and everyday commerce, does not always provide.

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