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Your guide to Manarola

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Manarola clings to a rocky promontory above the Ligurian Sea with a self-assurance that centuries of exposure to salt wind and steep terrain seem to have bred into the stone itself. One of the five villages that make up the Cinque Terre, it sits roughly in the middle of the chain, connected to its neighbours by coastal footpaths, by boat, and by the railway line that threads through the cliffs between La Spezia and the Riviera di Levante. The village is small enough to walk end to end in minutes, yet its verticality, its stacked pastel houses, and the dark harbour cut into the rock below give it a density of character that larger places rarely achieve.

The harbour area, known as the marina, is where most visitors find their bearings. Fishing boats are hauled out of the water on a system of rails, a practical arrangement that has changed little in its essentials over generations. Above the marina, the main caruggio, the narrow lane that forms the village spine, climbs through archways and past wine cellars toward the church of San Lorenzo, whose Gothic facade dates to the fourteenth century. The surrounding terraced vineyards, cut into the hillside at considerable effort, produce Sciacchetrà, the sweet passito wine for which the Cinque Terre has long been known. The terraces themselves are a UNESCO-recognised landscape, maintained by a dwindling number of local farmers against the persistent pull of gravity and economics.

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