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Guadalajara earns its reputation as Mexico's second city not through size alone but through a particular confidence in its own identity. This is the place that gave the world mariachi music and tequila, two exports so thoroughly woven into Mexican culture that it is easy to forget they originated in the red volcanic soil and colonial plazas of Jalisco. The city sits on a high plateau in western Mexico at roughly 1,500 metres above sea level, which keeps its climate mild and its light unusually clear, a quality that has long attracted painters, architects, and writers who found the capital too chaotic and the coast too indolent.

The historic centre is where the city's ambitions are most legibly written. The Cathedral of Guadalajara, begun in the sixteenth century and finished across several more, stands at the axis of four plazas that together form a cross shape unique among Mexican city plans. Nearby, the Hospicio Cabañas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, houses the murals of José Clemente Orozco, whose work on the chapel ceiling is considered among the most significant achievements of the Mexican muralist movement. These are not peripheral attractions but the actual substance of the city, and any visit that skips them has missed the argument Guadalajara is making about itself.