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Gianyar sits in the cultural core of Bali, a regency whose name most visitors recognise without quite knowing why, until they arrive and find that almost everything they associate with the island's artistic identity originates here. The royal court of Gianyar was one of the last to resist Dutch colonial control in the early twentieth century, and that fierce sense of local pride never entirely dissolved. It settled instead into the weaving workshops of Ubud, the stone-carving villages along the road to Mas, and the gamelan orchestras that still rehearse in open-air pavilions on warm evenings.

Ubud is the obvious gravitational centre for first-time visitors, and its reputation as Bali's arts capital is well earned rather than merely marketed. The Monkey Forest at the southern end of Jalan Monkey Forest Road, the Puri Lukisan museum of traditional Balinese painting, and the terraced rice fields of Tegallalang draw a steady stream of travellers who then find themselves staying longer than planned. What surprises many is how quickly the town gives way to countryside. A short ride north or east and the roads narrow into lanes flanked by coconut palms and small family temples, the air noticeably cooler at Gianyar's higher elevations.