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Few places in the Netherlands carry the weight of a single artist's presence quite as completely as Nuenen. This quiet North Brabant village, set among flat agricultural land and modest church spires, was home to Vincent van Gogh between 1883 and 1885, and those two years produced some of the most formative work of his career. He painted the weavers in their cottages, the potato fields, the old tower of the Reformed church, and the people who worked the land around him. The Nuenen period culminated in The Potato Eaters, the dark, earthy canvas he considered his first serious masterpiece, painted in a studio he rented from the local sexton. That history is not merely commemorated here; it is embedded in the fabric of the place.

The village itself is small enough to cover on foot or by bicycle, which suits the way most visitors choose to experience it. The Van Gogh Village Museum, housed in a building beside the church on the Papenvoort, organises the story of those two years with care, placing his letters, reproductions, and contextual objects alongside the landscapes he actually looked at through the window. Outside, a marked route connects the sites he painted: the mill at Collse Watermolen, the fields he crossed in all weathers, the house on the Nuenen road where his parents lived and where he worked in a converted outbuilding. Walking that route on a grey autumn afternoon, when the light flattens across the polders in exactly the way his early palette suggests, is a particular kind of encounter with a painter's working life.