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Johor Bahru sits at the southern tip of Peninsular Malaysia, separated from Singapore by the Strait of Johor and connected to it by the Causeway, one of the busiest land border crossings in the world. That proximity has shaped the city profoundly. JB, as locals call it, has long existed in a kind of productive tension with its neighbour, drawing Singaporeans across for cheaper meals, fuel, and shopping while absorbing influences that have made it one of Malaysia's most commercially energetic cities. In recent years it has grown into something more confident in its own right, with a skyline that keeps climbing and a cultural identity that rewards visitors who look beyond the border queues.

The older parts of the city carry a different register entirely. The area around Jalan Wong Ah Fook and the Kotaraya district holds shophouses whose facades speak to the layered history of Johor's Chinese, Malay, and colonial past. The Sultan Abu Bakar State Mosque, completed in 1900 and set on a rise above the strait, remains one of the most photographed buildings in the state, its Victorian-Moorish architecture a reminder that Johor's royal house cultivated its own distinct aesthetic. The Royal Abu Bakar Museum, housed in the Istana Besar, gives that history a more intimate texture, with rooms that have changed little since the nineteenth century.