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Ciutadella de Menorca sits at the western tip of the island, facing Mallorca across a stretch of open sea, and it wears its history more visibly than almost anywhere else in the Balearics. The old town is a compact arrangement of limestone palaces, Gothic arcades, and narrow lanes that slope down towards a long natural harbour, all of it built during the centuries when Menorca was under Aragonese and later Spanish rule. The cathedral, begun in the fourteenth century on the site of a former mosque, anchors the old quarter with a quiet authority that the island's more tourist-heavy corners rarely manage. Walking the Ses Voltes arcade on a warm evening, with the stone still holding the heat of the afternoon, gives a clearer sense of the city's character than any museum could.

The harbour itself is the social and geographical centre of Ciutadella life. It cuts deep into the land, forming a narrow inlet lined with restaurants and small boats, and the views from the quayside terraces across to the opposite bank are one of those simple pleasures that the city offers without ceremony. The surrounding streets, particularly around the Plaça des Born, open onto a square that has served as the city's main public space since the medieval period and still hosts the extraordinary Festa de Sant Joan each June, a festival of horses and riders that is among the most distinctive local celebrations in the whole of Spain.