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Few towns announce themselves quite like Alice Springs. Sitting almost exactly at the geographical centre of Australia, it rises from the red dirt of the Tanami and Simpson deserts with the MacDonnell Ranges as a backdrop, their quartzite ridges running east and west like the spines of something ancient. The Todd River, dry for most of the year, cuts through the town itself, a reminder that this landscape operates on its own terms. For a place of roughly 25,000 people, Alice Springs carries an outsized cultural weight: it is the principal hub of the Red Centre, the gateway to some of the most significant Aboriginal country on earth, and a town whose character has been shaped by the meeting of Arrernte tradition and the particular stubbornness required to build a permanent settlement this far from anywhere else.

The town centre is compact and walkable, with Todd Mall as its social spine. Around it you find the Araluen Arts Centre, which holds one of the most important collections of Albert Namatjira's watercolours, and the Museum of Central Australia, whose natural history galleries give real geological context to the landscape outside. The Old Telegraph Station, a short walk north along the Todd, marks the original settlement site from the 1870s and remains one of the better-preserved examples of colonial-era outback infrastructure in the country. These places are not incidental to a visit; they are where the town explains itself.