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Bormio sits at an altitude of roughly 1,225 metres in the Valtellina valley, pressed between the peaks of the Ortler Alps in northern Lombardy, close to the Swiss and Austrian borders. It is one of those rare Alpine towns that has been drawing travellers for centuries not because of any single constructed attraction but because of what the earth itself produces here: thermal water, rising hot from deep volcanic sources, that has been channelled into baths since Roman times. The town's medieval core, with its arcaded streets and stone towers, gives the place a gravity that purely modern ski resorts lack, and the surrounding Stelvio National Park, one of the largest protected areas in the Alps, frames every view with something genuinely wild.

The thermal tradition is the thread that runs through Bormio's identity more than any other. The Bagni Vecchi, which translates simply as the old baths, occupy a site carved into the rock face above the town and have records of use stretching back to antiquity; Roman legions, Renaissance nobles, and later the Empress Sissi of Austria are all said to have taken the waters here. A voucher for QC Terme Bagni Vecchi is the single bookable experience currently available through the catalogue, and it is a fitting one, because an afternoon in those pools, with the valley dropping away below and steam rising against the mountain air, is probably the most distinctly Bormio thing a visitor can do. The newer QC Terme spa in the town centre draws from the same thermal sources and tends to attract a younger crowd, but the Bagni Vecchi site, cut into the cliff at around 1,800 metres, carries a different atmosphere entirely.